Anyone who is still checking this, even occasionally, is clearly very patient and dedicated to the idea of following our progress. If anyone out there fits into this category, I appreciate you. I also appreciate anyone who checked this for the first couple weeks or so, then gave up. That's understandable.
It is nowhere near as easy as I imagined to update this trailblog while hiking the trail. The first opportunity we had was in Neels Gap, Georgia 30 miles into our hike. At that point, however, we had done way too many miles in our first two days and I can personally attest to being zombielike with fatigue. The only internet access was on a laptop in the middle of a crowded outfitter store, and I didn't really relish the idea of standing there, (there was no chair), and trying to put into words the first part of the experience within the allotted 15 minute time frame. I was simply too tired, and my brain felt as sluggish and worn out as my body.
Next, we had an opportunity in Hiawassee, GA, about 70 miles in. We stayed at the Blueberry Patch Hostel about 10 miles out of town. Let me take this opportunity to insert a quick plug for that particular establishment. It is run by a very religious couple named Gary and Lenny Poteat. They don't allow alcohol and tobacco at their hostel, but they are two of the most kindhearted people we've met so far. They wash and fold your filthy, stinking laundry, shuttle you to town, and back to the trail head, and cook you an amazing breakfast that is still the best meal I've had on the trail. Eggs, sausage, hash browns, cheese biscuits with homemade sausage gravy, pancakes with homemade blueberry syrup, coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice. Lenny even gave us a hug before she left for work. I am by no means a religious man, but I was glad to join hands with this couple while Gary said grace before the meal. Even with my entirely unexpert ear in such matters, and the pronounced hunger pangs distracting me, I was aware that Gary says a hell of a grace. I may have even felt a bit "blessed" leaving there.
Anyway, the internet access at Hiawassee was at the public library. It was fairly accessable, but we were in town, 10 miles away from our bunks, with grocery bags bulging full of our next few days food, and it was starting to rain. Given the fact that we had to hitchhike that 10 miles, we decided to put off the blog yet again.
If these stories sound like excuses, that's because they are exactly that. I have more! The ancient looking computer at the very loosely run, but very cool Standing Bear Hostel cost money to use. A whole dollar for 15 minutes! Another important reason for our absence of blogging is that, the further we come, the more stories accumulate, and the harder the task seems to put together an entry worthy of those experiences. I realize that I am currently failing quite spectacularly at the task, so what follows is a brief littany of those experiences with almost no supporting details: Meeting a blonde haired, frightening, pigtailed, baritone giantess on our first night who, because of an uncomfortable story about icecream, we dubbed "licker". Doing 15 miles each of our first two days. Spraining my ankle the first day. Walking in cold rain the second day. Reaching Neels gap and Pirate's Hostel at the end of the second day. Taking our first zero day there due to early injuries. Meeting our German friends Craig (who is actually british), Henrick (a german detective), and David (now "hatchet" who is miles ahead freely dispensing whiskey to those who pass by him). Hiking out of Neels Gap under the cover of darkness and in the midst of a thunder storm. Our first night in the tent on top of Tray mountain, in an even more intense thunderstorm. Aforementioned Blueberry Patch Hiker Hostel. Trail magic a bit before our first state line complete with lots of free whiskey and beer--Nate playfully threatening to fight one of our German friends, and the boisterous, whiskey-fueled, group hug that followed. Our understated, utterly fanfairless arrival at the GA/NC state line. The ice clinging to all the trees directly after that state line. A hard push, (including our first 20+ mile day) into the Nantahala Outdoor Center, and the delicious burger and beer we indulged in there. Another push to Fontana Dam just before Smoky Mountain National Park, where we spent two zero days because of the disgusting crater of a blister on Nate's heel. Passing those two days drinking growlers at the lavish shelter dubbed the "Fontana Hilton". Getting up into the smokies and seeing that the forest floor was blanketed with millions of little white and purple flowers. Hitting the highest point of the trail, (Clingman's Dome in the smokies) in the middle of a snow, and frozen rain storm, and subsequently shivering the rest of the day away in an overcrowded shelter. Hiking my favorite hike of the trail the following day (20 miles of largely ridgeline with beautiful weather and views on either side) the day after the storm. Staying at the Standing Bear Farm hostel where they operate on the honor system, they do beer runs, and the owner is a long haired ex-marine with a pet squirrel. Feeling an infection set into my foot the next day. Hobbling 26 miles to the next town (over the course of two days).
That brings me here, to the public library in Hot Springs, NC. I left a lot out of that feverish list out of necessity and the realization that this laptop is about to die. My current accomodations include a four-post, queen sized bed with a down comforter and a perfectly soft mattress. Luckily there is a medical clinic, and I have been prescribed an antibiotic to get rid of the infection in my foot. Nate has decided to push on. We both agree that it is much easier to do this when you don't have to try to keep pace with someone else, or rely on any of the gear they might be carrying. So, we're both doing our own hike and I feel great about it.
I should be out of here in another day or so. Nate assures me he'll post on here sometime as well, which will be great because he can upload photos. We're both okay, and I feel comfortable in speaking for Nate when I say that we appreciate you all and can't wait to see you when we get to Maine! Stay tuned for more. I'll try to get the next post in before the experiences pile up too much.
