I came here today intending to shower, do my laundry, and then hike on another 10 miles, but I'm not really feeling like hiking another 10 miles on top of the 10 miles I've already hiked...plus this place has nice bunks with sheets and blankets, and a deal where you pay a lump sum for sodas, a pint of Ben &Jerry's, and a pizza! How could I resist!? Anyway, it's starting to rain and the 10 miles to this hostel were some of the worst miles I've hiked, so bad, they've named the section the "Roller Coaster." From the guide--Northbounders leaving the Rod Hollow Shelter (where I stayed last night) will enter the "roller coaster," a 13.5 mile section with ten ascents and descents. The Virginia corridor is narrow here, leaving trail crews very little choice other than to route the path up and over each of these viewless and rocky ridges. It's rocky, slippery, and seemingly never ending. Only 3.5 miles left for tomorrow! By staying here tonight I'm prolonging making it to the 1,000 mile mark, but I'm okay with that.
So since Bland, VA or my last post, I've really just done a lot of hiking. I finally got my trail name at Catawba Mountain Shelter. A couple of nice thru-hikers from Mass (Glad Gal and Clutch) gave me the name "Coast." They thought it fitting for a couple of reasons, the first because I'm from the coast, and the other was due to my hiking style...according to them I kind of coast by. I hadn't heard of any other "Coast's" out here, so I took it.
There's this thing called the "Virginia Blues" that some through hikers get. I got them pretty bad a couple of times, but I've found the best way to cope...stop hiking for the day! It works wonders. I've realized it's hard to be on top of your game every day...damn near impossible. Virginia is the longest state on the AT and it feels never ending, but I'm seven miles away from being through with it. The 250 mile section before Shenandoah National Park is surprisingly difficult and it doesn't have a whole lot to offer for views, especially when over a 100 miles of it were spent in a cloud.
Shenandoah was nice. A hundred miles of well-groomed trails and waysides every twenty-five or so miles (Park stores/ grills along the trail with shower and laundry facilities). Some of these waysides had amazing blackberry milkshakes. I got one with breakfast...sooo good! Shenandoah is known for its abundant wildlife and many vistas. My first day in the park started with a lot of rain, but cleared up nicely in the afternoon, when I just happened to see my first black bear in the wild! It was really exciting and awesome to be in the presence of a wild animal that has the ability (or will have the ability when it doubles in size) to eat me. Honestly the bear was about as large as a medium sized dog, and after checking me out for about five seconds I sent it on its way with stern remarks and by banging my hiking poles together...top of the food chain baby. It rained about five inches my second day in the park...I considered building a raft and floating down the trail. Things finally dried out a bit on the my third day. On this day I encountered my second bear, a much larger bear he was. I would say he was between 200 and 300 pounds. He was a handsome bear, quite a specimen. He was about ten feet from the trail, which didn't work for me considering I had to walk by him, so I tried my previous techniques of intimidation, which startled the bear for about two seconds and about ten feet further from the trail, but otherwise to no avail. He seemed to realize, he was much larger than I, and that he had nothing to worry about. At this point I just continued my tough guy act and walked past the beast. The bear seemed confused and maybe a bit amused by my show of little-man syndrome. Anyhow, this encounter was spon followed by a wayside, which meant clean clothes, a shower, and good eats. My last couple days in the park were nice. I spotted one more bear, but it was already running due to my presence. There were lots of deer. I practically had to move them off the trail at times.
My first night out of the park was spent in a shelter with one other guy that just happened to be hiking the trail on food stamps and in jeans. He was quite a character. He had a wind-up radio and said himself, he had a knack for finding a top-forty radio station no matter where he was. He certainly found one and sang along to all the teenie-bopper songs. His sing alongs were accompanied by excessive farts, which he seemed to surprise himself with. Of course, I thought this was all very funny. As funny as it all was, he truly was a sad and foul human being. This was just yesterday, and now here I am cozy, warm, and clean at the Bears Den Hostel.
I will be heading through Harpers Ferry, WV tomorrow, which is the psychological halfway point, and into Maryland.
Dad, I'm not sure where I'll be calling from next, but the next town I should be resupplying in is Blue Ridge Summit, PA (for trackintg purposes).
Again I miss and love everyone at home, and can't wait to see you all (that includes you Gram!). Wormy, thank you for simply being you. Thanks Don, Kristi, and everyone else for the encouraging messages...they really play a part in keeping my spirits high. Emily Carver, for the record I haven't talked to everyone! You (one of my top-tens) are on my list! I'm so glad your first trip went well...you're amazing! Kerry keep your daughter in line and make her run so that she can keep up with me during the hundred mile wilderness. Thanks Donna for your messages, rubbing it in that you're eating Dorman's and I'm not...don't worry I'll make up for lost time when I get home (of course on your wallet..hehe). I can't wait to dance party with all of you!!!!! You all know who you are...Cheers!
Sunday, May 22, 2011
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
First post, but sorry no pictures....
Well Mike really has you all filled in on the first part of our journey, so I’ll try to talk a little bit about my experiences since we decided to hike separately. About the photos, well, I’d been trying for nearly an hour to figure out how to put them on the blog, and thought I did have it figured out, but then the camera battery died. So no pictures this time.
As I left Hot Springs and headed towards Erwin, I found it difficult to plan my days, without having Mike there to discuss it with. I started hiking kind of carelessly, without plans, but soon found out my body wasn’t going to have it. I realized it was a necessity to plan my hiking around what my body could handle. As I’ve done this, I’ve gotten to know my limitations much better and what I’m capable of.
Just before Erwin, my bowel activity was suddenly less predictable than normal and my BM’s were much looser…sorry to those of you who are unfamiliar with my obsession with poop talk…anyway, I was running to the bushes nearly not making it, maybe five times a day. Of course this coincided with a section of the trail that didn’t have privies. I shit in the woods more times in two days than I had in my entire life. Things started looking up in Erwin, but then I decided to eat Mexican, which made things worse. I proceeded to have the shits for another three days without any privies…now I’m pretty much a pro at crapping in the woods.
After Erwin, while having the shits, I started doing 20 mile days, consistently, because my body was feeling good, besides the incessant cramps. I had my favorite climb yet up Roan Mountain, where the highest shelter on the trail is at 6,275ft. I didn’t stay in this shelter, but I did stop for water and to take some pictures. It was actually a firewarden’s cabin, which was rebuilt to accommodate hikers. From there I went on to the largest shelter on the trail, a large, red, renovated barn. The hiking between these two shelters was some of the most magnificent scenery yet. Several balds in a row, with panoramic views from each summit. All of the these balds were at least 5,500ft.
At this point I started hiking with some hikers who were doing similar miles. This group has since split up, but I’ve been hiking with one of the guys from the group, a 52 year old English guy named “Charlie.” His trail name is “Charlie,” because he walks like Charlie Chaplin. He’s an amazing guy. He’s hiked the AT, the PCT, and the CDT, each twice, and done several cycling trips, including one from Alaska to Chile. I’m starting to hike a lot of miles and it feels good. The aches and pains are mostly gone and I’m able to spend more time thinking about life and what I’m doing.
The night before I entered Virginia, we (me and other hikers in the shelter) experienced a really intense t-storm, with hail and winds we thought were going to tear the roof off the shelter. Upon entering Damascus, VA, I realized everything was closed. Apparently there had been a tornado in the next town over, which killed several people. The power was out, meaning no shower, laundry, resupply, etc. Charlie and I befriended a section hiker who just happened to have her car in Damascus, so she brought us to another town where we were able to do everything except shower.
From Damascus I hiked my longest day yet, 28 miles! During this hike, I encountered a group of Urban Trekkers on the Virginia Creeper Trail, where they were doing a day of cycling. Jim was the only one I knew in the group, but I was sure it was him, so I turned around and approached the group. Jim didn’t remember me, but was really excited to see a Maine Trekker person in such a random setting. After talking to them for a few minutes, I continued on, but was chased down by one of the Urban Trekkers and questioned about my experience. This day of hiking brought me into the Grayson Highlands, where wild ponies roam on 5,000 ft. mountains. These ponies are accustomed to hikers passing through and often don’t get off the trail when approached. I camped in the shelter on Mount Rogers, in the Grayson Highlands. The night started with snoring from an overweight section hiker who I thought died several times that night, due to sleep apnea spells. He really stopped breathing several times, for up to 15 seconds. It was something. For some strange reason he stopped snoring at about 11pm, but that was when the ponies arrived and started there chewing, licking, grinding of teeth routine, at the shelters open face. I literally could have reached out and touched them. They did this through the night and early morning hours.
Despite the lack of sleep, the following day was one of my favorite days of hiking. The Grayson Highlands are beautiful…I will be returning to them at some point. Since then I’ve had a couple long hiking days, which have brought me here to Bland, VA, where I will be staying in a Motel for the first time on this trip. Trust me it’s nothing fancy, especially since I’m dishonestly sharing a room with four other hikers (the rooms are limited to four per room), but whatever, we’re saving a few bucks.
Throughout this hike I’ve thought regularly about all of my loved ones—family and friends. I’m excited to be where I am, but I’m also excited to be making my way home to see and be with everyone. I hope everyone is well, and look forward to seeing everyone this summer. Love you Mom, Dad, Bre, and Isla. And lots of love to everyone else who is following this blog.
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
First post--a little over 270 miles in...
Anyone who is still checking this, even occasionally, is clearly very patient and dedicated to the idea of following our progress. If anyone out there fits into this category, I appreciate you. I also appreciate anyone who checked this for the first couple weeks or so, then gave up. That's understandable.
It is nowhere near as easy as I imagined to update this trailblog while hiking the trail. The first opportunity we had was in Neels Gap, Georgia 30 miles into our hike. At that point, however, we had done way too many miles in our first two days and I can personally attest to being zombielike with fatigue. The only internet access was on a laptop in the middle of a crowded outfitter store, and I didn't really relish the idea of standing there, (there was no chair), and trying to put into words the first part of the experience within the allotted 15 minute time frame. I was simply too tired, and my brain felt as sluggish and worn out as my body.
Next, we had an opportunity in Hiawassee, GA, about 70 miles in. We stayed at the Blueberry Patch Hostel about 10 miles out of town. Let me take this opportunity to insert a quick plug for that particular establishment. It is run by a very religious couple named Gary and Lenny Poteat. They don't allow alcohol and tobacco at their hostel, but they are two of the most kindhearted people we've met so far. They wash and fold your filthy, stinking laundry, shuttle you to town, and back to the trail head, and cook you an amazing breakfast that is still the best meal I've had on the trail. Eggs, sausage, hash browns, cheese biscuits with homemade sausage gravy, pancakes with homemade blueberry syrup, coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice. Lenny even gave us a hug before she left for work. I am by no means a religious man, but I was glad to join hands with this couple while Gary said grace before the meal. Even with my entirely unexpert ear in such matters, and the pronounced hunger pangs distracting me, I was aware that Gary says a hell of a grace. I may have even felt a bit "blessed" leaving there.
Anyway, the internet access at Hiawassee was at the public library. It was fairly accessable, but we were in town, 10 miles away from our bunks, with grocery bags bulging full of our next few days food, and it was starting to rain. Given the fact that we had to hitchhike that 10 miles, we decided to put off the blog yet again.
If these stories sound like excuses, that's because they are exactly that. I have more! The ancient looking computer at the very loosely run, but very cool Standing Bear Hostel cost money to use. A whole dollar for 15 minutes! Another important reason for our absence of blogging is that, the further we come, the more stories accumulate, and the harder the task seems to put together an entry worthy of those experiences. I realize that I am currently failing quite spectacularly at the task, so what follows is a brief littany of those experiences with almost no supporting details: Meeting a blonde haired, frightening, pigtailed, baritone giantess on our first night who, because of an uncomfortable story about icecream, we dubbed "licker". Doing 15 miles each of our first two days. Spraining my ankle the first day. Walking in cold rain the second day. Reaching Neels gap and Pirate's Hostel at the end of the second day. Taking our first zero day there due to early injuries. Meeting our German friends Craig (who is actually british), Henrick (a german detective), and David (now "hatchet" who is miles ahead freely dispensing whiskey to those who pass by him). Hiking out of Neels Gap under the cover of darkness and in the midst of a thunder storm. Our first night in the tent on top of Tray mountain, in an even more intense thunderstorm. Aforementioned Blueberry Patch Hiker Hostel. Trail magic a bit before our first state line complete with lots of free whiskey and beer--Nate playfully threatening to fight one of our German friends, and the boisterous, whiskey-fueled, group hug that followed. Our understated, utterly fanfairless arrival at the GA/NC state line. The ice clinging to all the trees directly after that state line. A hard push, (including our first 20+ mile day) into the Nantahala Outdoor Center, and the delicious burger and beer we indulged in there. Another push to Fontana Dam just before Smoky Mountain National Park, where we spent two zero days because of the disgusting crater of a blister on Nate's heel. Passing those two days drinking growlers at the lavish shelter dubbed the "Fontana Hilton". Getting up into the smokies and seeing that the forest floor was blanketed with millions of little white and purple flowers. Hitting the highest point of the trail, (Clingman's Dome in the smokies) in the middle of a snow, and frozen rain storm, and subsequently shivering the rest of the day away in an overcrowded shelter. Hiking my favorite hike of the trail the following day (20 miles of largely ridgeline with beautiful weather and views on either side) the day after the storm. Staying at the Standing Bear Farm hostel where they operate on the honor system, they do beer runs, and the owner is a long haired ex-marine with a pet squirrel. Feeling an infection set into my foot the next day. Hobbling 26 miles to the next town (over the course of two days).
That brings me here, to the public library in Hot Springs, NC. I left a lot out of that feverish list out of necessity and the realization that this laptop is about to die. My current accomodations include a four-post, queen sized bed with a down comforter and a perfectly soft mattress. Luckily there is a medical clinic, and I have been prescribed an antibiotic to get rid of the infection in my foot. Nate has decided to push on. We both agree that it is much easier to do this when you don't have to try to keep pace with someone else, or rely on any of the gear they might be carrying. So, we're both doing our own hike and I feel great about it.
I should be out of here in another day or so. Nate assures me he'll post on here sometime as well, which will be great because he can upload photos. We're both okay, and I feel comfortable in speaking for Nate when I say that we appreciate you all and can't wait to see you when we get to Maine! Stay tuned for more. I'll try to get the next post in before the experiences pile up too much.
It is nowhere near as easy as I imagined to update this trailblog while hiking the trail. The first opportunity we had was in Neels Gap, Georgia 30 miles into our hike. At that point, however, we had done way too many miles in our first two days and I can personally attest to being zombielike with fatigue. The only internet access was on a laptop in the middle of a crowded outfitter store, and I didn't really relish the idea of standing there, (there was no chair), and trying to put into words the first part of the experience within the allotted 15 minute time frame. I was simply too tired, and my brain felt as sluggish and worn out as my body.
Next, we had an opportunity in Hiawassee, GA, about 70 miles in. We stayed at the Blueberry Patch Hostel about 10 miles out of town. Let me take this opportunity to insert a quick plug for that particular establishment. It is run by a very religious couple named Gary and Lenny Poteat. They don't allow alcohol and tobacco at their hostel, but they are two of the most kindhearted people we've met so far. They wash and fold your filthy, stinking laundry, shuttle you to town, and back to the trail head, and cook you an amazing breakfast that is still the best meal I've had on the trail. Eggs, sausage, hash browns, cheese biscuits with homemade sausage gravy, pancakes with homemade blueberry syrup, coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice. Lenny even gave us a hug before she left for work. I am by no means a religious man, but I was glad to join hands with this couple while Gary said grace before the meal. Even with my entirely unexpert ear in such matters, and the pronounced hunger pangs distracting me, I was aware that Gary says a hell of a grace. I may have even felt a bit "blessed" leaving there.
Anyway, the internet access at Hiawassee was at the public library. It was fairly accessable, but we were in town, 10 miles away from our bunks, with grocery bags bulging full of our next few days food, and it was starting to rain. Given the fact that we had to hitchhike that 10 miles, we decided to put off the blog yet again.
If these stories sound like excuses, that's because they are exactly that. I have more! The ancient looking computer at the very loosely run, but very cool Standing Bear Hostel cost money to use. A whole dollar for 15 minutes! Another important reason for our absence of blogging is that, the further we come, the more stories accumulate, and the harder the task seems to put together an entry worthy of those experiences. I realize that I am currently failing quite spectacularly at the task, so what follows is a brief littany of those experiences with almost no supporting details: Meeting a blonde haired, frightening, pigtailed, baritone giantess on our first night who, because of an uncomfortable story about icecream, we dubbed "licker". Doing 15 miles each of our first two days. Spraining my ankle the first day. Walking in cold rain the second day. Reaching Neels gap and Pirate's Hostel at the end of the second day. Taking our first zero day there due to early injuries. Meeting our German friends Craig (who is actually british), Henrick (a german detective), and David (now "hatchet" who is miles ahead freely dispensing whiskey to those who pass by him). Hiking out of Neels Gap under the cover of darkness and in the midst of a thunder storm. Our first night in the tent on top of Tray mountain, in an even more intense thunderstorm. Aforementioned Blueberry Patch Hiker Hostel. Trail magic a bit before our first state line complete with lots of free whiskey and beer--Nate playfully threatening to fight one of our German friends, and the boisterous, whiskey-fueled, group hug that followed. Our understated, utterly fanfairless arrival at the GA/NC state line. The ice clinging to all the trees directly after that state line. A hard push, (including our first 20+ mile day) into the Nantahala Outdoor Center, and the delicious burger and beer we indulged in there. Another push to Fontana Dam just before Smoky Mountain National Park, where we spent two zero days because of the disgusting crater of a blister on Nate's heel. Passing those two days drinking growlers at the lavish shelter dubbed the "Fontana Hilton". Getting up into the smokies and seeing that the forest floor was blanketed with millions of little white and purple flowers. Hitting the highest point of the trail, (Clingman's Dome in the smokies) in the middle of a snow, and frozen rain storm, and subsequently shivering the rest of the day away in an overcrowded shelter. Hiking my favorite hike of the trail the following day (20 miles of largely ridgeline with beautiful weather and views on either side) the day after the storm. Staying at the Standing Bear Farm hostel where they operate on the honor system, they do beer runs, and the owner is a long haired ex-marine with a pet squirrel. Feeling an infection set into my foot the next day. Hobbling 26 miles to the next town (over the course of two days).
That brings me here, to the public library in Hot Springs, NC. I left a lot out of that feverish list out of necessity and the realization that this laptop is about to die. My current accomodations include a four-post, queen sized bed with a down comforter and a perfectly soft mattress. Luckily there is a medical clinic, and I have been prescribed an antibiotic to get rid of the infection in my foot. Nate has decided to push on. We both agree that it is much easier to do this when you don't have to try to keep pace with someone else, or rely on any of the gear they might be carrying. So, we're both doing our own hike and I feel great about it.
I should be out of here in another day or so. Nate assures me he'll post on here sometime as well, which will be great because he can upload photos. We're both okay, and I feel comfortable in speaking for Nate when I say that we appreciate you all and can't wait to see you when we get to Maine! Stay tuned for more. I'll try to get the next post in before the experiences pile up too much.
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Starting off
We'll be heading down to Portland in a couple hours, and from there Boston, and finally Georgia. I guess we can't really say we've started the journey yet. I just wanted to make sure this thing works.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)